Old man winter lets loose a final blast to knock that last orange leaf to the ground. For some, it's time to roll your favorite two-wheeled companion into a corner of the garage, throw the battery on a trickle charge, and hope for an early spring. For others, there is no end to the riding season, just a change in riding gear. No, we're not talking about those who live in perpetual sunshine and warmth, but rather, folks who don't let winter deprive them of their favorite form of transportation.

Terry Cook, an AMA government relations specialist and MSF instructor and Eddie James, an AMA Road Riding Director, are die-hard motorcyclist. Both men agree that cold-weather riding can be quite enjoyable. But they stress that the weather poses its own serious dangers that must be dealt with. Call them the arctic wanderers or just plain crazy, but they prolong their riding seasons with a little knowledge and a few cold weather tricks. Here's what you can learn from these motorcycling polar bears.

Black Ice

Black ice, really just an ominous name for hard-to-see frozen water on the road. It can occur any time the temperature has been near the freezing point, or where frost can form. "You really can't see black ice," Cook says, "but you can anticipate where it's likely to be."

Bridges are very susceptible because they are disconnected from the warmth of the Earth, which is why we see signs warning that bridges may ice first. Be on the lookout for roads that are shaded from the sun or follow a river or stream. Our experts also say that a road that looks really smooth should be suspect.

With black ice, it's best to just avoid it. "Stay on well-traveled roads and ride in the car tracks," Cook says. "A road with lots of activity tends to keep black ice from forming." If you feel like you're on it, don't make any sudden moves, and don't touch the brakes. Our experts say to pull in the clutch and let the bike coast down until you're clear.

Hypothermia

That cold shiver up your spine isn't just uncomfortable, it could also be the beginning of a very deadly condition called hypothermia. It occurs when your core body temperature drops significantly, and can be exacerbated by water, wind and exhaustion.

Temperatures don't need to be below freezing to induce hypothermia. Wind chill gets worse as wind speeds increase, and the longer you're out, the worse it gets. One of the early signs of potential hypothermia occurs when you start feeling cold and you can't decide if you should pull over or not. The answer is always yes, but your judgment may be clouded. Long before this point occurs, you should have pulled into that nice warm cafe and had some hot chocolate or soup.

Uncontrolled shivering and chattering teeth are signs of real danger. You may start to feel dizzy, or even drunk, as your muscles begin to stiffen. Continued exposure may cause the shivering to slow down or even stop, but by then you're in serious trouble.

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Frostbite

That cold scalpel of air is a sure warning sign to cover up. Exposed skin is at risk of frostbite in temperatures as warm as 55 degrees. Your nose, earlobes, fingers and toes are some of the more likely targets of frostbite. The early symptoms include a pins-and-needles sensation, with the skin turning very white and soft. At this point, no permanent damage has occurred, and you can reverse the effects of exposure by soaking the areas in luke warm water or breathing on them.

In the next stage, waxy patches may occur and the skin may feel numb. After this, you may lose feeling in the affected area. Permanent damage is on its way.

Again, it's the speed of the wind and the length of exposure that drastically lowers wind chill temperatures. That means riding at just 30 mph on a 45 degree day will put you in danger of both hypothermia and frostbite in as little as a half hour.

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Insulation and wind resistance

How do you mitigate these dangers? Simple, cover up. "Whether it's 40 degrees or 15 degrees," James says, "if all your skin is covered up, the wind chill is irrelevant."

There are plenty of products available to help you beat the cold, and what's right for you depends greatly on where, when, and for how long you intend to ride. In the end though, it all boils down to insulating your body, much like the way you insulate your home. To do that you'll need to layer your clothes. Make that inner layer thermal or fleece underwear. The idea is to let your body create a warm cushion of air between you and the environment.

Next, you need to stop the environment from stealing your warm air. As your outer layer, some form of windbreaker will do the trick. A denim jacket, though comfortable standing still, just isn't going to cut it. You need a material that blocks air. Leather has always been a popular outer shell for its wind resistance, abrasion resistance and the fact that it looks cool.

There are, of course, many other fabric choices from man-made fibers. Cook recommends an overall suit that also repels water. But whatever your choice, make sure it has some crash protection, just in case mr black ice makes an appearance. Hands can be particularly vulnerable. Gauntlet-style gloves will help keep your fingers warmer longer. The extra length up your sleeve helps to seal cold air out and warm air in.

For extreme cold, Cook recommends something like the old "Hippo Hands" that mount on the handlebars and fit over the controls and hand grips. You slide your hands into a rear-facing opening. These usually have very thick insulation and will allow you to use smaller gloves.

It may be obvious, but a full face helmet will keep you warmer than no helmet, or a shorty. And you'll want to seal the area between your neck and that. A bandanna will work, but leather or any wind proof fabric will cut wind better. There are fleece and silk neck warmers, and a balaclava which fits over your head like a ski mask.

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Block the Wind

As speeds increase, cold air has a way of sneaking in, and robbing heat. Your front line in the defense against cold is to try and block the winds.

A windshield or fairing is a good front line defense. A small windshield that mounts to your handlebars can be low enough to look over, but just big enough to divert wind from your chest. James and Cook don't mess around. They have fairly big windshields on their winter bikes.

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Electrical Heat

Now, if you really want to be good and toasty, James recommends getting wired. Electrical clothing, which uses your bike's electrical system to power heating elements, make a huge difference by not just insulating you, but adding heat to the whole equation.

Gloves start around $100. Vests, depending on the style, can go from $100 to $200. Socks can range from simple D-cell powered items that'll go for around $25, to $90 systems that hook into the rest of your electric riding gear. For $400 to $500, there's even an electrically heated saddle -- the ultimate in tush warmth. "For around $700," James says, "you can pretty much outfit yourself neck to toe."

The key is to make sure your charging system can handle the load that electric heat draws from your bike. Check your owner's manual, or stop by your local dealer to confirm you have enough electrical reserves on your bike to handle the load. Still, many riders find that just heating their hands, or their torso with a vest, makes a huge difference.

One last tip: Drink liquids to stay warm

Our experts offer a final thought about cold weather riding -- drink lots of liquids. Yes, you still lose water even though it's freezing out. It's easy to get dehydrated, even in winter, because you don't notice that you're perspiring. Stay away from caffeine drinks, and of course alcohol, but sweet drinks can provide much needed carb's to help boost your body's heat making ability.

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